conversation with the designer – a descendant of Olkhon shamans – Russia today Posting in CHAT: Russia In March, the capital hosted Moscow Fashion Week, which for the first time brought together representatives of the fashion industry from half the regions of the country. Brands from 48 cities took part in the shows, market and showroom work, including Astrakhan, Voronezh, Volgograd, Yekaterinburg, Ivanovo, Irkutsk, Medvezhyegorsk, Rostov-on-Don, Tyumen, Ulan-Ude and Yakutsk. Then, during the shows, many paid attention to one of the most unusual collections of Ulan-Ude designer Nadezhda Abzaeva (Abzaeva brand). His concept was to rethink the traditions of the nomadic culture of the designer’s small homeland – Buryatia. Upon closer examination, it turned out that the collection, conveying the atmosphere of shamanism and belief in spirits, reflected the history of the shamanic family of Olkhon Island, to which the founder of the brand belongs. “Reedus” could not pass by such an unusual combination and not ask Nadezhda Abzaeva herself a few questions. Reedus: Your show was one of the most unusual this fashion week. Tell us about the concept of your collection? Nadezhda Abzaeva: In the brand, I develop the idea of a plurality of worlds. This is a story about how man is not the center of the universe, but an equal participant in it along with nature, other creatures, animals and spirits. The new collection is dedicated to the connection between people, animals and nature. It is about us being one with the world around us, it is about networks, relationships and interdependence. Some textures for the collection I took from nature, some patterns were inspired by the shape of lotuses that decorate the thrones of Buddhas in Buddhist sculpture. I reduced and enlarged these details, folded them into petals, and folded them into sharp spike buds. When large, they took the form of a scaly shell. In small sizes, arranged in a row, they resembled parts of the bodies of insects with their characteristic plasticity. The human body is also part of nature, so one of the textures is inspired by the structure of human ribs. I added swag ribbons to almost every tuck. I wanted to achieve the effect of an organism, something unresolved and alive. Reedus: What explains such a meager range of colors in the collection? Nadezhda Abzaeva: I read a long time ago that the Buryats had the word “black and white”, it meant two kilometers, a distance, because it was believed that at a distance of two kilometers during sunrise and sunset the colors black and white came together. For me, this is part of the way of thinking, the originality of our ancestors, who sense distance and space in a special way. “Reedus”: You belong to one of the shamanic clans of Olkhon. Does this influence your creativity in any way? Nadezhda Abzaeva: I am inspired by shamanism as part of my way of thinking and consciousness. It seems to me that speaking and being inspired by this is very sincere, because the goal of the brand and my activities is to convey a view of the world, what I love and believe in. Designer Nadezhda Abzaeva, “Golden Scissors” from Buryatia. © Olga Sokolova / Reedus.ru “Reedus”: You are called the “Golden Scissors” of Buryatia, where did this name come from? Nadezhda Abzaeva: We have a fairy tale “Altan-Khaisha – Golden Scissors”. We are talking about a beautiful girl, very smart, with a kind heart. The golden scissors are a metaphor for her mind, fast and sharp, capable of solving any complex problem. I am very glad that I am related to Altan-Khaisha, I have loved this fairy tale since childhood and admire the main character and her qualities. Reedus: This isn't your first fashion week. What do fashion weeks give you as a designer? Nadezhda Abzaeva: Fashion Week is a holiday for the designer and the industry as a whole. Exhibitions of new collections provide an opportunity to understand and feel the inner world of a designer. For example, I was very touched by Sasha Gapanovich’s performance. We are friends and I admire her as a talented designer. At the show, I felt her soul, tender, gentle, beautiful, there was a feeling that they were opening their heart to you and sharing love. And this, of course, is more than fashion. This is art. Abzaev brand. © Olga Sokolova / Reedus.ru “Reedus”: How is your work in the field of fashion and design perceived in your native Buryatia? Nadezhda Abzaeva: Very good, I always receive a lot of support and kind words. My last performance was supported by the Ministry of Culture of Buryatia. I believe that Buryatia has the potential to develop a local fashion context. On the one hand, we are part of Russia, on the other, we are neighbors with Mongolia and China, and we often travel to Korea. This affects the clothes sold in local stores and the style of the city's residents in general. Reedus: Who are your collections primarily intended for? Who is the main consumer of such unusual things? Where are they usually worn? How are they sold and how much do they cost? Nadezhda Abzaeva: During the training, we compiled a portrait of the target consumer of my brand. I remember then I couldn’t decide who my dress was for. And then I followed this path: I managed the brand and created collections, focusing on the inner sense of beauty, time, fashion. And come what may. After my graduation collection, I was surprised to see that many people liked my clothes. So my target group began to come to me - people of creative professions, designers, architects, creators of projects in the field of art and fashion, trend researchers, artists. These are all incredibly wonderful people, and every time I feel inner gratitude for the opportunity to meet them. My clothes are sometimes worn or not, depending on how you feel. I mainly make sales through the website, social networks, and sometimes I participate in markets. I periodically deliver items to showrooms that collaborate with Russian designers. The prices for my products are determined by the middle and upper segment. In Buryatia, everything is created in small editions; the designs often involve a lot of handwork and complex work with the texture of the fabric and its dyeing. Reedus: Do you have any ideas for a collection for the upcoming Moscow Fashion Week? Nadezhda Abzaeva: Yes, of course. I’m already slowly starting to collect images and meanings of the new collection in my head. But for now, with your permission, I will keep this process a secret. Source link Source link
